“Everything hurts.”
As we climbed to our rustic hotel in Valfabbrica, those two words summed up our day on the Way of St. Francis. We celebrated warm showers, beer at the Pinky Bar, and dinner up the hill at a ristorante with linen tablecloths, the works. My birthday calzone was as big as a football, and I ate the whole thing.
To be fair, Saturday had been a relatively short, easy trek, but we paid for it today, Sunday. We climbed 3,500 feet and descended 4,400 feet.
Umbria did its best to distract us with natural beauty as well as medieval castles and churches. But the moment we will most remember came as we climbed to a home with commanding views of the valley we had left behind. A woman pulled out two plastic chairs and pointed. Sue and I sat. Our feet oohed and aahed. We had a conversation that no one understood. But it didn’t matter. Smiles and kindness said it all.
carryoncouple 
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