Posts Tagged With: Adventure in France

500 Miles in Six Minutes

A quick look at the ever-changing scenery of France’s Via Podiensis.

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Camino in France – One Last Post

The guidebook won’t tell you, but Reg will! Click below and read on…

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Camino in France – Last Day!

Day 44 – Larceveau to Saint-Jean- Pied-de-Port

Our last day of walking. It’s hard to believe we’ve come so far. So many memories.

Reg is working on his end-of-trip wrap-up post with all the facts, figures and details I don’t bother myself with. If you have questions, you’ll find the answers there! I’ll repost it here shortly, so keep a lookout!

We did it!
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Camino in France – Hang On…It’s A Roller Coaster

Day 40 – Maslacq to Narvarrenx

Hang on to your hat…it’s a roller coaster. At least that’s what today’s walk felt like. These weren’t the longest or highest climbs of the trek, but definitely steep and relentless throughout the day.

Our elevation map for day 40 looked like a roller coaster.

In spite of our huffing and puffing, we had a pretty good day.

Day 41 – Navarrenx to Lichos

Friday the 13th was our lucky day. Just nine miles to our next overnight stop. Our walking took us back into forests and through pastures on dirt trails. The day was cooler with rain expected Saturday. A very pleasant day.
(slideshow below)

Day 42 – Lichos to Saint-Palais

Another gorgeous sunrise.

We’re curious about the spring-like grass covering the hills and fields. What keeps it green and growing during the recent heat? Consistent temperatures in the 80s-90s (F) have caused us to wilt like old heads of lettuce, yet the landscape looks fresh and new. Very puzzling…

We weren’t sure whether this grand old building still houses a school as the sign indicated. If not, there’s a good chance it’s haunted.
On to our next stop – Saint-Palais…then just two more days of walking!

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Camino in France – Up With The Sun

Day 38 – Arzacq-Arraziguet to Arthez-de-Béarn

Early morning starts have been chilly as the October sun rises slowly. A series of steep ups and downs returned midday, causing some grumbling from behind.

Sunrise over Lac d’Arzacq.
Herds of cattle return to our landscape.
The road ahead.

The church pictured below offered a shady spot for a quick bite to eat. After another few hours of walking, we called it a day.

We found some shade alongside this church.

Day 39 – Arthez-de-Béarn to Maslacq

Nothing much to report on day 39. Moving forward with just 57 miles left to cover.

Morning mist hovers over the path.
Return of the corn.
A vending machine outside the pharmacy. An after hours lifesaver for blistered Pilgrim feet.
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Camino in France – Up To Our Ears In Corn

Day 36 – Aire-sur-l’Adour to Miramont-Sensacq

An early start brought us 300-feet up and out of Aire-sur-l’Adour where we caught the last glimmer of sunrise.

Église Sainte-Quitterie.

The remainder of our day led us along farm roads bordering never-ending fields of corn. That was the extent of our scenery.

Day 37 – Miramont-Sensacq to Arzacq-Arraziguet

Prior to leaving, our host took our photo in front of her home (circa 1742) where she and her husband host travelers from around the world. A comfortable blend of old and new, we enjoyed a large, renovated bedroom with bath, a home cooked dinner and breakfast with coffee in a mug. So much tastier than from a teacup.

Monday morning, October 9.
La Prade Hotel in Miramont-Sensacq.
A walk through cornfields, a quick look behind and then we were back on the trail.

Fields of corn continued to crop up, but on a much smaller scale. Forested landscapes, pasture land, churches and herds of cattle returned, lifting our spirits.

Tomorrow (October 10) we begin our last week…just 7 walking days left before we’re due to reach our goal of Saint-Jean-Pied-du-Port.

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Camino in France – Oops!

Day 35 – Nogaro to Aire-sur-l’Adour

Walking into the sunrise

The day began with a beautiful sunrise walk, but after 30 minutes a local woman, out for her daily stroll, pointed out that we were headed the wrong way and turned us around. Drat! We were following the old route. Eventually the red and white blazes reappeared, assuring us we were back on track.

After hours of walking a quirky, but much appreciated, trailside rest stop appeared. We couldn’t resist the ice cold water and unique photo opportunity. We made our donation, I took photos and off we went.

Day 36 – Rest day in Aire-sur-l’Adour

Le pont de l’Adour.

The Saturday morning market was in full swing and it seemed that most of the village was there. The vendors were rushing to fill bags and baskets with fruits, vegetables, meats, breads, jams – everything one might need for a week of healthy eating.

The Saint-Jean-Baptiste d’Aire Cathedral is a Catholic place of worship located in the commune of Aire-sur-l’Adour, in the French department of Landes. Built from the 11th and 12th centuries, it was classified as a Historic Monument by decree of August 9, 1906. (Wikipedia)

We’ve cancelled our half-board-scheduled dinner (on the outskirts of town) for tonight and made reservations at an Italian restaurant in the heart of the village. Tomorrow morning we’ll set off on the last leg of our trek. Nine more days of walking.

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Camino in France – Just Say “No”

Day 34 – Eauze to Nogaro

Our Wednesday night room in Eauze was at Hotel Henri IV.

“No, we don’t eat meat,” Reg fibbed to our server upon hearing our dinner choices….duck cooked this way, or duck cooked that way. Neither of us like duck, no matter how it’s cooked.
When we booked our trip, our travel company reserved all our rooms for us with dinner and breakfast included. It’s worked well, especially in some of the smaller villages. The downside is that our dinner choices are set. What we see is what we get.

After a bit of negotiation, we were offered the mixed vegetable, mashed potato and salad plate. Exactly what we were hoping for.

Today’s favorite feature was the brightly colored bull ring in the village of Manciet. You won’t see a typical bullfight here. The Course Landsis, as it’s called, is an ancient form of bullfighting. Cows, described as small and athletic, replace bulls. Details are vague, but the claim is that it’s a popular spectator sport with no bloodshed.

Manciet’s bull ring.

Lots of cornfields today. Tomorrow we have a long haul where a rest day awaits.

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Camino in France – Off With Their Heads

Day 32 – Condom to Montréal

A field of harvested sunflowers.

We’ve passed by acres of dry and droopy sunflowers, but yesterday’s path took us by the first harvested field. Headless stalks were all that remained of what was once a sea of yellow flowers…a sign that fall is here with winter close behind.

Morning in Condom, France

Tuesday the threat of rain hovered over our heads. With only one light shower we lucked out and simply enjoyed the cooler weather.
The high point of an otherwise tedious day was a stop at Église de Routges, the oldest church in the region. There was no information about when the church was built, but the Cicerone Guidebook included an interesting bit of history.

A historical note regarding
Église de Routges.

Day 33 – Montréal to Eauze

Breakfast magically appeared at 7:00 this morning. We were the only guests to show our faces at the Victorian Lodge and the only ones to order breakfast. We we had the house (and the coffee pot) to ourselves.

Breakfast at the Victorian Lodge.

Day 33 (Wednesday) has been the absolute easiest day of our trek. Shaded, flat, smooth trails, paved rail trails and grassy vineyards required far less effort than we have come to expect.

The slideshow below illustrates what slackers we were today. Happy slackers!

A good Pilgrim always supports the trailside cafes. We stopped for a cold drink and continued on.

Two more days of walking and we’ll earn a rest day. It can’t come soon enough!

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Camino in France – A Day Without Highs

Day 26 – Moissac to Auvillar

Much of today’s walk followed alongside Canal Latéral.

The scenery was somewhat repetitive, but the path was wonderfully flat. I can’t tell you what a relief that was for us. Steep climbs have been the daily norm since our first day out of Le Puy and have caused us to rack up a whopping 34,235 feet of ascent (along with some pretty tired feet).

A delicious dinner on the terrace
of our hilltop hotel.

Day 27 – Auvillar to Miradoux

A stop for lunch in the tiny village of Flamarens allowed us a peek at the Château de Flamarens, pictured above. The château was built and added on to from the 12th – 15th centuries. Neglected in the 20th century, it has now been partially restored and serves as a Bed & Breakfast for a lucky few. A French/Canadian couple we’ve become friendly with had the good fortune to stay there and sleep in the King’s Bedroom last night.

Day 28 – Miradoux to Lectoure

Acres and acres of sunflowers have lined the trail for the last few days, all past their prime and brown and droopy. How I wish we could have seen them all in full bloom.

Sunflowers past their prime.
Acres and acres of sunflowers.

Lectoure’s Cathédrale Saint-Gervais dates from 1488. Another incredible example of architecture and craftsmanship.

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